Avoid problems with a good mix of
materials, balance is the key to success:
The garden provides soft sappy materials, like grass, vegetable
leaves and annual weeds, which are all good for generating heat and
supplying moisture. These are needed by woody, stalky materials, which
in turn will absorb surplus liquids, and will benefit from the higher
temperatures.
“My compost is lumpy”
Compost will be lumpy if large rooty material is simply thrown on
the heap, without any attempt to break it down with a spade or shredder.
You'll get better results if the material is broken down as the finer
the particles the more readily they will turn into compost.
Woody, stalky material is best shredded or chopped up, you may be able
to run a mower over it. Breaking up this sort of hard material will
speed up the composting process and make sure you are not picking sticks
out of your finished compost.
“My compost is soggy and wet”
A soggy mess often results when far too much grass is added at once,
producing a dense, airless and sour pile. Don't add more than 15cm (6
inches) of grass in one layer and for each layer of grass add a layer of
stalky materials or scrumpled paper. If you have
too much grass also
see the advice sheet Grass and Leaves
“My compost is very weedy”
Weedy compost is the result
of a cold heap. Annual weed seeds, as well as many diseases can be
destroyed if the temperature in the compost bin is high. In the summer,
when you remove the lid, you should always be able to warm your hands,
even if you can't bake a potato, as has been claimed. If your heap
is cold move it to a sunnier place if you can or add regular 15cm (6
inch) layers of grass mowing. Turning the heap will also increase
the heat. See the advice sheet
Keeping your bin working.
“Can I compost perennial weeds, like
ground elder and docks?”
These weeds take longer to break down. Do not try to compost
celandine and Japanese knotweed. See the advice sheet on
Perennial Weeds
“My sprout stalks don't seem to have
broken down”
If you put sprout stalks straight into the heap, most of them will still
be almost unchanged many months after unless you break them up a bit. And
this applies to other tough specimens like woody herbs and raspberry
canes. A shredder will do this job for you, but a variety of implements,
including shears and a sharp spade will break them down.
“I tried to compost all my grass but
it's turned soggy and smelly”
Look at our advice on
composting grass. It becomes smelly because there is no air for
the bacteria to work. Mixing in crumpled paper absorbs the
moisture and creates lots of little air pockets.
“As I've got older, I've found it hard
to turn my compost.”
The Compostabin is ideal for
you as turning is not needed. When harvesting your compost, you
will need to fork back the material that isn't ready. This is not
arduous and introduces enough air. See
To turn or not to turn?
“My compost in the bin is dry and hard”
In very dry summers, this can happen, but is unlikely to happen with the
Compostabin. Too little moisture is as bad as too much.
Moisten with a watering can if necessary.
"Every time I open my bin, there are
lots of flies everywhere"
These fruit flies are a special problem in the summer.
Cover your fresh compost with topsoil or fresh grass clippings to get
rid of the flies.
“What do I do with woody prunings”
It's best to shred them and use them as a mulch. Alternatively make
a dead hedge. See the advice sheet on Woody
Prunings.
“Should I compost rhubarb leaves?”
Yes.
“Should I
compost blighty potato shaws [haulms]?”
Yes, provided your composter has a lid, like the Compostabin.